It used to be a 36" shower stall, but there is additional space Remember Me? Find questions to answer Find today's questions Find unanswered questions. Search Topics. Show Questions Show Posts. Login Not a member? Join our community. Jan 1, , PM. It does not mention the use of a mud base. Is this needed? Any earlier post here talks about using a rubber material to prevent squeaks.
Is green board the type of material to finish the top areas. The instructions have drywall with finish board?? I expect that some trim strips will be needed to match thickness of lip of shower walls.
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For assistance, contact American Standard Support. Compare Products. You have added a Product! Add Up to 3 Products to Compare. Error: you have items selected from a different category. Corner showers, also known as neo-angle showers, often serve bathrooms that have limited floor space, thus allowing a shower in a space that would be too small for a square or rectangular shower.
During new construction when the walls are open, a one-piece shower unit is easy to install. You can apply moisture-resistant paint with a brush or a roller in the space above the shower panels. Cement board is a good, reliable backer board that works well on both floors and walls.
Keep in mind that most tile setters err on the side of caution and brush a waterproofing membrane on top of cement board when it is in wet areas like showers or tub surrounds.
A 4pc-bathroom is a bathroom design that includes four plumbing fixtures each with its own drain. Many of our bathroom renovations are to build or rejuvenate a 4-piece bathroom. A half-bath, also known as a powder room or guest bath, has only two of the four main bathroom components—typically a toilet and sink.
A Three-piece bathroom 3-piece bath is a restroom three plumbing fixtures: a sink and a toilet, plus one other fixture. As opposed to a traditional full bath, a three-quarter bath is usually characterized by an efficient combination of standing shower, sink and toilet.
Tub and shower surround kits can come as a single complete unit, but these are usually used for new construction. Most tub and shower surrounds designed for remodeling applications come in several pieces to make installation in tight spaces easier. The surround kits designed for attachment to studs are usually made of fiberglass or acrylic material that is quite sturdy, sometimes featuring built-in molded shelving.
Make sure to read the instructions before installing any tub or shower surround. When buying a direct-to-stud surround, make sure that you get the right size for the width of the tub or shower you have. This type of surround can't be trimmed to fit in the same way that is possible with adhesive-type surrounds. Unless the studs are already exposed, installation starts by stripping the walls down to the studs around where the surround will sit.
This is demolition work that may require a pry bar and reciprocating saw, depending on what type of wall surface is present. Often, it is best to cut out an area of the wall slightly larger than the surround, because this makes it easier to anchor the flanges to the studs.
After installation, you can then install drywall so it butts up to the surround over the nailing flanges. When removing drywall, make sure to remove all nails or screws, and check to make sure the studs lie in a flat plane.
If necessary, you may need to shim out the studs if they are uneven or bowed. This ensures that the surround panels will lie flat against the walls.
Make sure the installation is done according to the manufacturer's instructions. If an adhesive or silicone sealant is also required on the wall, then be sure to follow this procedure. Install the back wall panel first. Some kits have one back panel; others have two. Position the back surround panel on the tub and level it. Have someone help hold it in place while you check to see how it fits against the walls and the edge of the tub or shower base.
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